Creativity, long days keep Big Fatty’s owner ahead of sluggish economy

Photo by Michael Patrick // Buy this photo

Lisa Smith, owner of Big Fatty's Restaurant and Catering, checks on a food order in the kitchen of her business on Kingston Pike in Homberg.

Photo by Michael Patrick

Lisa Smith, owner of Big Fatty's Restaurant and Catering, serves an order to lunch time customers at her business on Kingston Pike in Homberg.

Lisa Smith will tell you the key to maintaining a viable restaurant is working hard and being creative.

After shadowing her for most of a day, this reporter can attest that those elements are in place.

The owner of Big Fatty's Catering Kitchen Restaurant works seven days a week, and she begins each day with a 5-mile walk.

"It's a way for me to get my stress out and get the endorphins going. Then I start jacking the coffee," she said.

She's usually at the restaurant by 9:30 a.m. and often doesn't go home until after closing, which is 8:30 p.m. On a "good day" she leaves at 6 p.m.

"I only live about five minutes away so if they need me they know where to find me. (But) I never stop working. If I'm not here I'm thinking about it or driving around to see how busy other places are. I don't think my mind ever clicks off," she said.

Because of the slump in the economy, Smith has had to cut staff to keep costs down.

During the week she employees two line cooks that prep and work the lunch rush. Another line cook comes in around 4 p.m. and stays until closing. In between their shifts Smith mans the grill.

She keeps a server on duty all day and she has a part-time cashier who comes in a couple of times a week.

When they are slammed, Smith takes up the slack.

"The economy has forced me to be a better business person. Nobody is on the clock when I don't need them. I watch every penny," she said.

On the day I visited customers began to trickle in around 11 a.m.

By 11:30 a.m. the joint was jumping.

While server Erin Mullaly maintained the dining room, taking orders, refilling glasses and cleaning tables, Smith did most of the running.

In an hour's time she had made 97 trips into and out of the kitchen. However, all tips went to Mullaly.

"I can't say enough about my staff. They are fantastic. We have disagreements around here and sometimes I overreact, but I always apologize," Smith said.

Although staff has been cut, she said the quality of her food and its serving size will not be compromised.

"We might have bad parking and sometimes a bad attitude, but we consistently have good food," she said.

Her blue plate specials are the most popular items on the menu during the week, but on Sunday it's brunch that brings in a crowd.

"We started that about a year ago and it's been a money-maker ever since. I wish I had done it earlier," she said.

Special menus are offered on holidays, including an upcoming Easter brunch.

In hopes of increasing evening business she recently got her beer license, has added three flat-screen TVs to the dining room and is offering free wi-fi.

"I was never going to serve beer, but I'm doing it. I was never going to have TVs, but I'm doing it. You've heard that necessity is the mother of invention? Well, being broke is the mother of creativity in this business.

If it helps me get a few extra customers a day, it's worth it. If we don't sell it we'll all get drunk and I won't buy it anymore," she said jokingly.

She draws inspiration from Bob Luper, who owns Naples Restaurant, and Kevin Diffley, owner of Chez Guevara.

She said both have incredible work ethics and will do whatever is needed - even washing dishes - to keep service running.

"Whenever I talk to Bob and Kevin they say keep your doors open. It just takes time. Don't compromise your product because you can't build a business on (expletive)," she said.

Right now her catering business is what keeps her afloat. And, except to pay her mortgage and utility bills, she hasn't taken a paycheck in a year and a half. But she's not discouraged.

"I find the best way to motivate myself is to be positive. Ted Turner said success requires a lot of hard work. The economy might get me, but I won't be outworked," she said.

She shares the following recipes.

Shrimp 'n' grits

2 cups cooked grits

8 tablespoons grated cheese

24 (2 1/25 count) peeled and de-veined shrimp

1 medium onion, diced

3 stalks celery, diced

1 medium green bell pepper, diced

1 cup diced andouille sausage or kielbasa

1 large can diced tomatoes

Salt, pepper and granulated garlic, to taste

Cook grits per package directions.

Saute onion, celery, bell pepper, sausage in pan over medium high heat until vegetables are translucent. Add shrimp and tomatoes, cook until shrimp is done, 4-5 minutes. Add seasonings and serve over 1/2 cup of grits, topped with 2 tablespoons grated cheddar cheese. Yield: 4 servings.

Big Fatty's spinach Maria

8 ounce cream cheese

3 cups heavy whipping cream

2 (10-ounce) boxes frozen spinach (thawed, and excess water squeezed out)

1 package Lipton onion soup mix

Salt, pepper and granulated garlic, to taste

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Heat cream cheese and whipping cream on low heat and whisk until mixture is smooth.

Add spinach, soup mix and seasonings to cream cheese mixture. Stir until fully combined. Pour into greased casserole dish and bake for 50 minutes. Yield: 8-10 servings.

Big Fatty's broccoli casserole

8 ounce cream cheese

3 cups heavy whipping cream

2 (10-ounce) boxes frozen broccoli pieces, thawed

2 cups shredded extra sharp cheddar

Salt, pepper and granulated garlic, to taste

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Heat cream cheese and whipping cream on low heat. Whisk until mixture is smooth.

Add broccoli, cheese and seasonings to cream cheese mixture and mix until fully combined. Pour into greased casserole dish and bake for 50 minutes at 375 degrees. Yield: 8-10 servings.

Mary Constantine may be reached at 865-342-6428.

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