Two Merlots worth a try

Earlier this year, the search for an affordable Merlot that was also high in quality seemed a formidable challenge. At one tasting alone, a local panel of wine enthusiasts ran through 15 or more Merlots in a vain attempt to find something worth recommending. This void in Merlot magic got me thinking about the protagonist in the movie "Sideways."

Played by actor Paul Giamatti, Miles makes it quite clear that, under no uncertain circumstances, is he ever going to drink "any ?!*# Merlot." Some might say that old Miles and I have something in common. Although I'll probably never be a serious Merlot drinker, recently I have been introduced to a handful of Merlots that I enjoy and recommend.

A few years ago, a new Cabernet was produced, bottled and shipped into the market. Named after its grape clone, the 337 Cabernet from Lodi quickly became a hot ticket item. Framed by its sleek tannins and luscious fruit flavors, the 337 Cabernet became just as famous for its very affordable price. Because of its national success, the makers of 337 Cabernet decided to capitalize on their success with a line extension and the introduction of a new Merlot.

Similar to the 337 Cabernet, this new Merlot would also come from Lodi and likewise be named for its grape clone. The 181 Merlot may not be the fix to Miles' bias towards this grape, but it does represent the style of Merlot that made the varietal so popular back in the '90s. With aromas of black pepper and a little cinnamon stick for a kick, the 2007 vintage of 181 Merlot has gripping acidity and popping spice notes. It offers both dark fruit flavors and a faint memory of my friend Stef's rhubarb pie. Fortunately, it avoids the contemporary pitfalls of being overly alcoholic in flavor or weighed down by herbaceous, green bell pepper tastes. With a drier Cabernet-like finish, the 181 Merlot is a great way to get reacquainted to the varietal and a real steal at $10.99.

A second surprise emerged late this summer from the American Northwest. Eccentric wine maker Charles Smith has produced several varietal-correct wines that are not only amusingly named but also quite enjoyable. In the Fall of 2008, I wrote about one of these soon-to-be-famous wines, the Kung Fu Girl Riesling. Now old Chuck Smith is back with one velvety smooth and devilishly delicious Merlot. Appropriately dubbed, the 2007 Velvet Devil Merlot has an all-spice characteristic that is reminiscent of Italian carrot cake. Rich black cherry and plum flavors help give this Merlot its silky texture.

Just like Kung Fu Girl will have you singing the '80s pop hit, "Everybody was Kung Fu Fighting," the 2007 Velvet Devil Merlot will have you repeating one of Eddie Murphy's famous lines from the movie "Coming to America." When an African king enters the Queens, N.Y., barbershop wearing elegant furs, Saul, an older Groucho Marx-looking gentleman played by Murphy, runs his hands over the smooth fur and wittingly quips, "Vat is that? Velvet?" After trying this little devil of a wine for only $10.99, you'll be thinking the same.

Roger Killen is wine manager at Bob's Package Store in Knoxville.

© 2009, Knoxville News Sentinel Co.
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