Frozen Concoctions

It seems obligatory to reference Jimmy Buffet in any discourse on booze in the blender, particularly since the margarita remains the powerhouse in frozen concoctions that help us hang on. Still the world of icy blends has changed and expanded since 1976 when Buffet effectively canonized the drink as a part of American culture.

With store shelves full of pre-mixed drinks that need only ice and electricity to achieve effortless enjoyment, the actual work of cutting fruit and measuring spirits seems a waste of time. A well-made drink with fresh lime beats the sticky-sweet $4 bar options that come from a big bag of green goop, but many of my taste tests leave me wondering if minute variations in quality between a homemade margarita or daiquiri and one produced with the top pre-made options (e.g. Cuervo Gold Margarita) merit the effort.

It's no accident that frozen drinks are popular when times get warm. Obviously we like to chill out, but also it's a time that offers lots of produce. When fresh fruit demands attention, a little rum, sugar, lemon and ice and the whir of a blender transform strawberries, bananas, melons, etc. into daiquiris.

It's messier than pre-made options or cans of frozen Bacardi mix (which I think are pretty tasty). Still, as we increasingly consider the impact of convenience on climate change and think about supporting local industry, it might be time to incorporate ideas from the slow food movement into our happy hour meditations by using fresh ingredients and taking the time to prepare them well.

While there's plenty to discuss in terms of icy beverages and little umbrellas, the combination of ice and booze has a number of applications that move beyond the barstool.

Ices and granitas make interesting additions to dinner parties and can be savory and sweet at the same time. These take a few hours of intermittent and easy effort, but if you can use a fork, you can make them.

America's favorite felon, Martha Stewart, enjoys fresh oysters with a bloody Mary granita. This blend of fresh tomato, spices and vodka is savory and would be tasty not only with oysters and shrimp but also on its own as a starter to a lazy day brunch. Cucumber and basil granita is another fresh option that will certainly excite conversation at a dinner party.

If the idea of a cucumber snow cone doesn't get your juices going, there are lots of sweet options that use fresh fruit and spirits. The combination of apple cider and brandy, or peaches and rum, or, of course, lime and tequila are perfect for this treatment. Instead of after dinner coffee in the summer, I'll take a Kahlua and espresso ice so I can cool down and perk up at the same time.

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