Grub Scout: The Spice Rack Cantina offers saucy on the side

I used to enjoy dining at Cozymel’s on Kingston Pike, so when I saw that a new Mexican-food restaurant was doing business in the same space, my curiosity got the better of me. The Grub Spouse and I stopped in for a recent lunch outing, and it didn’t take long for us to figure out what we had stumbled upon.

The inclusion of the word “rack” in the name of the restaurant should have been our first clue, although it wasn’t. However, when I noticed that the logo featured a pair of maracas that uncannily resembled female mammaries, it all began to sink in — The Spice Rack essentially had put a south-of-the-border spin on the Hooter’s skin-and-cleavage concept.

All lingering doubts were dispelled once we entered and were greeted by several young ladies showing plenty of both attributes and leaving little to the imagination. A little later, we would both take notice of how the servers sit at the table to take orders or not-so-subtly bend over the table to point out a menu item or retrieve a plate.

I say this not to pass judgment one way or the other but purely to inform. No doubt, this concept will be a strong draw for some demographics, while those with children in tow may deserve a heads-up. However, while we were there, we actually saw several families with young children dining in, and no one seemed to be complaining.

Otherwise, the atmosphere is not remarkable, but then again, I guess it doesn’t have to be. The underlying cantina-style setting is accented by several flat-screen TVs, and small, interactive video units are featured on each table. The systems allow diners to learn more about the restaurant (including bios on the individual Spice Rack Girls), and there are several videogames on the menu to help pass the time for those who aren’t otherwise gawking. You can even swipe a credit card at the table and pay your tab, if you like.

Oh yeah — there’s food, too. The menu offers a manageable array of traditional Mexican-food standbys, starting with appetizers like Stacked Nachos (their choice of words, not mine), quesadillas and chicken tenders. We tried out a small order (six) of Buffalo wings in roasted habanero glaze. The wings were fair — a shade thin on meatiness, but the sauce was a nice blend of smoky and sweet flavors.

Otherwise, the menu features sections of tacos, burritos and chimis, enchiladas, grilled items (including fajitas), sandwiches and chopped salads. I thought the picadillo beef enchiladas sounded appetizing, so I placed an order for the three stuffed tortillas, accompanied by refried beans and Yucatan rice. (Other enchilada fillings include cheese, chicken or a combination of ingredients.) The Spouse, a fajita lover always, ordered the chicken variety instead of the beef.

Our meals were delivered within a reasonable period of time, and while we waited, our server did an excellent job of keeping drinks filled and plates cleared. The food itself was enjoyable enough, not substantially better or worse than what you might find at any number of area Mexican-food restaurants. The Spouse thought the chicken was light on seasoning, but I thought it was well grilled. The enchiladas were likewise worth the effort and packed with bold picadillo flavor.

We passed on dessert (churros, fried ice cream sundae, chocolate brownie), but at least The Spouse and I were able to share an eye-opening meal together. And we agreed there would be no point in telling the 16-year-old Grub Sprout what he missed.

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