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Let’s face it; Sutherland Avenue isn’t exactly restaurant row, and the name Dead End BBQ doesn’t exactly conjure up the most upscale of mental images. But a quick review of the recently opened restaurant’s origins on its bare bones Web site still piqued my interest enough to lure me in just last Sunday.

I was almost expecting to find a ramshackle mom-and-pop barbecue stand, but what I discovered instead was a spacious, full-service restaurant, complete with aesthetic touches you might expect to find in more upscale restaurants. From the modernly minimalist earth-tone color scheme to the professionally presented decor and interior graphics to the solid black outfits worn by the serving staff, Dead End BBQ struck me as being anything but dead-end.

The lineup offers not just the essentials but also a unique assortment of barbecue-smoker fare. Dining solo that day, I thought I’d try to sample as much as I could from the core barbecue selection, which includes pulled pork, beef brisket, two different varieties of chicken, smoked sausage and St. Louis-style ribs. Each is served with a choice of two sides and bread, and they offer two- and three-meat combos as well. According to the menu, each item undergoes a lengthy dry-rub and smoking procedure before being served.

I knew I couldn’t handle more than a two-meat combo plate, so I opted for servings of pulled pork and chicken, with baked beans and potato salad as my side items. I chose jalapeno cornbread over regular cornbread and Texas toast. However, I really wanted to try the ribs as well, so my server suggested that I get the Blue Rib-bons appetizer, which would give me a four-bone sampling without having to pay for a half of full rack.

Other menu items include Sutherland Sliders (sample-size sandwiches with pork, brisket or chicken), bacon-wrapped barbecue shrimp, four different varieties of smoke house wings, a grilled smoked bologna sandwich, the Rebel Yell barbecue burger, and the Tennessee grilled beef and cheddar sandwich, featuring caramelized onions and Dead End red sauce on toasted sourdough bread.

Although Dead End takes its time with the barbecuing process itself, the prep and service time was amazingly prompt that day, especially considering that I was still in the after-church rush. My food was out in a flash, and I started with the ribs, which were some of the meatiest I’ve ever had. The four bones were already separated, and scarcely a scrap of tender, juicy meat dared cling to any of them. The Dead End rib rub was indeed a nice enhancement, and I even dipped a few bites into their vinegar-based barbecue sauce for good measure.

The pulled pork and chicken likewise were standouts, although the chicken was a tad drier than the pork and fared better when embellished by the barbecue sauce. The baked beans and potato salad were both good choices, but I found the latter to be, though tasty, a shade on the dense side.

My main concern with Dead End BBQ is with its price-to-portion ratio. For example, my four-bone rib appetizer, while absolutely unforgettable, rang up at $9. The combo plate, $13, featured serving sizes that could have been more substantial for the price.

But if you love you some ‘cue, I think you should hit the open road to Dead End BBQ. Ah, there’s the rub.

© 2009, Knoxville News Sentinel
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