Grub Scout: Gnome doesn’t roam too far from standard pub fare

The Grub Scout is not immune to the persuasive powers of advertising. After hearing a succession of radio ads for The Roaming Gnome Pub & Eatery (repetition works), I fell prey to their claims that their food transcends typical pub grub.

There are two area Roaming Gnome locations, one on the Cumberland Strip and the original RG, which is a little more cleverly hidden, at Governor’s Crossing Mall in Sevierville. Recently, I happened to be in Sevier County around the lunch hour and decided to give the food there a shot.

I was particularly intrigued by RG’s 15-minute lunch guarantee, which promises a free meal if not delivered within the promised quarter-hour time window. That promotion may come more into play at the Cumberland restaurant, but when I stepped into the Sevierville location, I knew it would be a moot point. Except for a couple of guys at the bar, I had the place to myself.

I took a front-window booth and studied the menu, which, according to the Web site, is the same for both brick-and-mortar sites. As expected, it offers up a Pub Grub Hall of Fame lineup. The appetizers come straight from Deep-Fried Heaven and include onion rings, cheese sticks and Irish Boxies—cheddar and chive mashed potatoes rolled in breadcrumbs and deep-fried, of course. Nachos, wings, potato skins and a tostada are also served.

The Roaming Gnome serves five different signature pizzas and calzones, or you can create your own. Entrées are limited to fish and chips, chicken tenders and the ambiguously named Gnome Entrée of the Day. Most of the choices lie in the burger and sandwich section of the menu, where you’ll find a club sandwich, Philly cheese steak, rib eye steak sandwich, Po Boy and open-face hot Italian sub among the possibilities. Five burger options round out the sandwich section.

I was tempted to try the Gnomad—a seasoned six-ounce chicken breast that’s breaded, deep fried to order and topped with grilled ham, bacon, Jack cheese and baked. The whole shebang is served on a toasted bun with lettuce, tomato and onion. My server unintentionally steered me away from it when she mentioned how large it was.

Not able to deal with leftovers, I went with the chicken parm panini, a deep-fried and seasoned chicken breast covered in hot marinara, mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses, placed on Italian bread and grilled. I assumed the Italian bread would be panini-style bread, but when the plate was set before me, I discovered that it was regular ol’ crispy Italian bread. The chicken itself was prepared satisfactorily, but the bread, which had a taste and texture similar to Texas toast, really tempered my enjoyment of this sandwich. I think this particular item should be more clearly explained on the menu for the benefit of panini purists.

Note that the Sevierville Roaming Gnome is open to guests age 21 and over and is a smoking facility, whereas the Cumberland Strip Gnome is open to all ages. And with a well-stocked bar, big-screen TVs, pool tables and video games, there’s no doubt either location would serve well as a game-day gathering place or nighttime watering hole.

As for the pub grub, there certainly is a wide selection, and there may be other menu items I would have liked better. But for the time being, I think I’ll keep roaming.

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