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Having recently suffered an incident of panini letdown, I was feeling a strong need for redemption in the form of a true, Italian-style sandwich. I knew that the recently opened Coolato Gelato on Gay Street featured paninis as the anchor of their non-gelato fare, so The Grub Spouse, The Grub Sprout and I headed downtown one recent evening to sample the eatery’s take on both the salty and sweet sides of Italian cuisine.

The grilled sandwiches come in several different varieties, including Italian deli, super club with grain mustard, smoked turkey, avocado and cherry tomato chutney, and three-cheese spinach. The three of us staked our claims on the remaining choices. The Sprout gravitated toward the Chicken Americano, while The Spouse ordered the roast beef and brie. I was eager to try the smoked salmon and goat cheese panini.

We placed our orders at the counter and took seats at one of a handful of tables in the restaurant, which has an essentially ice-cream-parlor atmosphere but is more hiply whimsical and cheerily stylish than old school. While waiting for the panini presses to do their thing, I took in the rest of the menu in the interest of thoroughness.

Breakfast items like the Good-Morning Parfait, a jumbo twisted Danish and coffee cake are available for early birds, while the kids’ menu includes a cheese panini, Pizza Pals and mini Nutella. Tortellini pasta and fruit salads are served as side dishes, and those with lighter appetites can select from several different cheese, fruit and antipasto boards.

Those who prefer the flavors of Italy in drinkable form can try a Smoolatto (a smoothie made from their homemade gelato) in a rainbow of blends that includes cherry-chip, cran-orange, chai tea chiller and mocha express. Coolato Gelato also serves Dancing Goats coffee brewed on site.

With just one panini press in operation, the pace of meal preparation wasn’t exactly zippy, which made me wonder how quickly the lunch crowds were being accommodated. But what we were served was definitely worth the extra wait. Each of the sandwiches, despite having the same bread as a common denominator, was distinctively wonderful. I loved my blend of thin, smoky salmon and tart goat cheese, but the roast beef and warm, soft brie was my definite favorite of the three. The seasoned chicken panini, while a little more pedestrian, was still a standout.

We passed on the homemade desserts (tiramisu, cannoli, lemon baby Bundt cake and caramel apple granny pie, to name a few) to try several of the 20-plus flavors of gelato and sorbeto made on site daily. By the way, gelato is made with milk, not cream, which gives it half the calories, but it is richer and thicker than ice cream. Sitting collectively in the frozen display case, the colorful creations were visually engaging on the front end, like large, open cans of edible Play-Doh.

Between the three of us, we tried a chocolate-peanut butter mixture, almond joy (chocolate with peanut butter and almonds) and tiramisu. Though it was unwieldy at times clawing bites of dense gelato away from the top-heavy serving cups with those tiny plastic spoons, the reward was deliciously authentic Italian sweetness.

I left feeling like my sweet tooth had been filled and my panini itch had been scratched. Domo arigato, Coolato Gelato.