Grub Scout: Superb Partridge & Pear not just for the holidays

“‘Twas the week before Christmas, driving through Pigeon Forge, when The Grub Spouse and I stopped, ready to gorge.” Don’t worry; I’ll spare you the rest of my lame parody as I describe what did turn out to be a holiday-themed Grub stop at The Partridge & Pear restaurant in Pigeon Forge. This place seemed to be the ideal holiday-dining destination.

We had expected a long wait, considering that it was the Saturday evening before Christmas and that shoppers were out in full force. But we were taken directly to a table in one of the restaurant’s six themed dining rooms. We were introduced to the Holly and Bavarian rooms before arriving at a table for two in the Angel Room. Each room features Christmas trappings suitable to its theme, including ornate, hand-painted scenes on the walls/ceilings. The furnishings and decor are tastefully upscale with an Old World flavor and reflect a restrained approach to decorating.

Our friendly server welcomed us with a basket of fresh homemade cranberry bread that we found ourselves nibbling on and enjoying throughout the entire meal. My first study of the menu proper revealed a selection of hearty meals that tend toward the heavy side, reminiscent of the kinds of foods one likes to splurge on during the holidays and then spends the next several weeks doing penance for on the treadmill.

Ham croquettes, sweet potato ravioli and a multicheese Christmas fondue highlight the handful of appetizers, while soups include French onion, mushroom and Christmas Eve vegetable stew. Their signature Partridge & Pear salad is made with cranberries, Asian pears, celery, red grapes and romaine leaves.

We headed straight for the entrees, which are divided into two sections. The Christmas Traditions section features cherry-glazed ham, pork tenderloin medallions and roast beef. The Spouse chose the oven-roasted turkey, which is served over cornbread dressing and comes with cranberry relish, a cup of vegetable soup, mashed potatoes and gravy, sweet potatoes with pecans and green bean casserole.

The remaining entrees are more diverse, including a turkey potpie, rack of lamb, prime rib, Christmas Eve lasagna, rainbow trout and chicken marsala. There’s also a vegetarian selection of four seasonal side dishes. I was too tempted by the andouille sausage-stuffed chicken. That comes with a side salad (I chose the Caesar), and I picked mashed potatoes as my side item.

Our wait for the entrees seemed longer than average, especially considering that the restaurant wasn’t even quite at capacity, but our server checked on us frequently, keeping our drinks filled and that delicious bread replenished.

We weren’t in any hurry, however, and our meals did arrive hot to our table. The bountiful roast turkey meal was pretty good, although the turkey appeared to be form-pressed rather than freshly sliced. The soup and sides were likewise respectable without being standouts.

My split chicken breast was filled with andouille sausage chunks blended into a bread crumb-based dressing, and it was topped with a cranberry glaze. It was an eclectic mix for the palate, and it was my favorite of the two entrees. I was likewise pleased with the decorative Caesar salad and the side of mashed potatoes, which retained bits of their red skins.

We managed to save the best for last, however, ordering a slice of carrot cake from their selection of homemade desserts. I can say unequivocally that this was the most superb specimen of carrot cake I’ve ever tasted, which is saying a lot for me, because I’m not necessarily that crazy about spiced desserts.

If you’re hanging out in Pigeon Forge this winter or even next summer, try parking your sleigh at The Partridge & Pear. One Scout a-Grubbing thinks it’s a dining experience that will always be in season.

© 2010 Knoxville.com. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.