Grub Scout: Night Owl Cafe elevates late-night eats

There are several items worth noting about The Night Owl Cafe, which set up shop in the Old City last year in the former Pasta Trio location. For starters, just about everything is homemade, including the sandwich breads, and the menu features a number of gluten-free items as well as several vegan-friendly offerings. Also, one shouldn’t overlook the fact that the restaurant gives a hoot about the late-night crowd, offering a rare culinary oasis for hungry after-hours revelers.

What prompted my visit, however, were the numerous reviews I had read online that raved about the cafe’s hamburgers. So The Grub Spouse, The Grub Sprout and I ventured into the Old City on the early-bird side of Night Owl’s operating schedule.

The space is compact, offering maybe 8 or 9 small tables plus a side counter with stools. The decor is thematically consistent with the restaurant’s name, displaying various artistic depictions of owls — both two- and three-dimensionally — throughout the room.

The menu, handwritten in chalk on a series of blackboards, starts off with appetizer-style items like hand-cut waffle chips, a spring mix side salad, soup (carrot and ginger that day) and chicken-liver mousse made with locally raised poultry.

The sandwich lineup (available on white, wheat or gluten-free bread) includes a veggie burger, barbecue tempeh, a shiitake sandwich and a fried-egg sandwich topped with habanero jelly, sprouts and cheddar cheese. You can also build your own sandwich, utilizing toppings such as roasted red peppers, sunflower sprouts, arugula, local bacon, house sauerkraut and a wide array of condiments.

I got The Burg, a burger made with grass-fed beef and topped with a thick slice of Gouda cheese, a fried onion ring and spinach. I chose wheat for my bread. The Sprout took advantage of the build-your-own option, choosing a marinated chicken breast topped with barbecue sauce on wheat bread. The Spouse steered away from the sandwiches and went with a small serving of lemon-almond hummus and a side salad.

In general, I was pleased with the quality of the food. The marinated chicken was flavorful and nicely embellished by the barbecue sauce. The Spouse’s hummus was tangy and distinctively imbued with lemon and almond flavor. Instead of the traditional pita wedges, this hummus was accompanied by large cubes of bread crusts.

The Burg towered over the plate that was set in front of me, and I had to mash it down compact enough for my jaws to get a grip. I had ordered the patty cooked medium, and I was concerned that it was perhaps a bit too rare still, but I forged ahead, hoping I’d come out none the worse for wear. The meat was not excessively juicy but still tasty, and the Gouda and spinach were fresh touches, resulting in a distinctively satisfying burger. I’m not sure I’d rate it as one of my all-time favorites like several folks did online, but it was definitely memorable.

We tried a couple of home-baked goodies for dessert. The Sprout got a chocolate cookie made with cacao nibs and taza dark chocolate chips. I tried a date bar made with an oatmeal crust and filled with a date, coconut, walnut and orange zest filling. Both made us screech with delight, especially the chewy, sweet date bar.

I would definitely recommend trying out The Night Owl Cafe, whether you’re swooping in early or winding down a late night on the prowl.

© 2011, Knoxville News Sentinel Co.
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