Critic's star breakdown
- Food: 3.5
- Service: 3.5
- Atmosphere: 3.5
- Overall: 3.5
With all the kiddos heading back to school, The Grub Spouse and I were feeling summer slipping quickly from our grasp, so thought we'd get in at least one more barbecue outing before the season got away from us altogether.
We dropped in on Ott's Bar-B-Q in Farragut (practically Dixie Lee Junction), which we had heard had somewhat of a local legacy when it comes to satisfying barbecue cravings.
We took our place in the 'cue queue and surveyed their concise menu signage behind the counter. Anchoring the offerings is your choice of a barbecue pork and a ham sandwich plate, which start at $6.25 and $7.25, respectively. Options include regular or platter size (25 cents difference), one side or two (a dollar's difference), and sandwich only ($4.95).
The Spouse got a smoked chicken platter with slaw and baked beans as sides. On an employee's recommendation, I got a half-rack of baby back ribs for $11.99, going with baked beans and potato salad as my sides. The only side neither of us went for was the buttered corn. (I avoid corn on the cob at restaurants, because I always wind up needing dental floss, and it drives me crazy.)
Other notable options on the menu are a chicken quesadilla and a bologna burger, made with an extra thick slab of meat that's fried Southern style. We ruled out a dessert early, noting that they offer only candy bars, Moon Pies and Mayfield ice cream.
Our food came out lickety-split, but by the time it arrived, The Spouse and I had had time to line up a sampler of Ott's different vinegar- and ketchup-based barbecue sauces.
I rate the ribs as slightly above average, although they didn't quite make the cut into my personal pantheon. It was a sizeable half-rack, about seven bones' worth, although the meat ratio per bone wasn't as high as I normally prefer. The flavor itself, however, was quite good — smoky, zesty and succulent.
The Spouse's chicken was cubed rather than pulled, which is neither here nor there, but the meat did possess an inherently satisfying off-the-smoker flavor. It was a shade dry for my taste, but not to a detrimental level.
As for the sides, the baked beans are tasty but a little on the mushy side. The potato salad is heavily mayonnaise-based, so those of you who don't prefer the white stuff should probably steer clear. I, however, am a mayo fan, so this side didn't vex me at all. The vinegar-based slaw seemed too vinegary and weak on any other flavoring.
In fact, that was my main issue with the vinegar-based sauces — too much emphasis on the vinegar without enough stress on the complementary flavoring. The three varieties were hard to distinguish. My favorites were the two ketchup-based sauces, in particular the super zesty thick-and-bold sauce. However, Ott's smoked meats stand up fairly well, even if you choose not to get saucy.
Overall, I can say that while Ott's didn't quite rise to the level of some other barbecue establishments in the area, there were enough positive takeaways for me to consider it at least worth a visit.
© 2011, Knoxville News Sentinel Co.
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Comments » 10
Archers_BBQ writes:
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Archers_BBQ writes:
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Archers_BBQ writes:
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KnoxvillePoster writes:
Wow. I've never been to Ott's, nor Archer's, but I can tell you that I will not be making a visit to Archer's since they decided to use this review to bash the competition and promote their own business. Shameless and rather arrogant, in my opinion.
KnoxvillePoster writes:
And apparently Archers_BBQ opened an account just to dispute the Grub Scout's reviews and shamelessly promote their own business. Stay classy, Archer's.
MikeLong writes:
Will have to agree with KnoxvillePoster..Besides everyone in Knoxville knows the M&M Catering on Middlebrook Pike has the best BBQ in town. Dead End BBQ on Sutherland runs a close 2nd, too.
deuceiswild writes:
Looks like Archers is trying to start a war with a local legend. I don't look for Archer's to stay in business long because they charge an arm and a leg for mediocre bbq that you could buy in the tub at your local grocer.
jonathan#509413 writes:
Well, Archer is right about one thing - Ott's ain't what it used to be. Heck, the original (which was in what amounted to a little shack with a few tables) wasn't the best but it was a darned sight better than what is there, now. The old Ott's was one of the few vinegar-based sauces that I actually liked because of the other flavors in the sauce. I have heard - but don't know if it is true - that the new owners don't have the original sauce recipe. I can say that it doesn't taste like what I remember - but that could just be my memory.
I have also eaten at Archers. Not bad food but not especially good, either. Kind of middle of the road, run of the mill food - except for the chicken wings which were quite tasty.
The problem, to me, is that many of the barbecue restaurants currently in this area seem to think that you should be able to smoke meat for hours yet have it come out tasting like it was cooked in an electric oven or crockpot. Why don't these folks understand that the point of smoking meat is so that you can get a pronounced, smoky flavor? Is it just that barbecue eaters in Knoxville prefer bland, lifeless meat? Heck, Buddy's pork is smokier tasting than most of the barbecue places around here (and when you compare unfavorably to Buddy's you've got problems.) When it comes to barbecue, smoke should act as a major 'seasoning' if not the MAIN 'seasoning' - with a dry rub and/or a little sauce to set it off. You shouldn't have to drown barbecue in sauce in order to get flavor.
I miss places like Sarges that used to be on Western Ave. His 'Virgin Islands' style sauces were great,flavorful and with various levels of spiciness so you could go as hot as you wanted but still his sauces complimented the meat rather than trying to make up for the meat's lack of flavor. Scruggs (on Magnolia) used to be some of the best I'd had anywhere but even they were sub-par the last time or two I ate there (which has been a couple of years - maybe they have improved or maybe they went out of business, by now.)
M&M really is pretty good but not what I would necessarily call 'great'. It is certainly better than average and probably the best in Knoxville, right now (although I still haven't tried Dead End and need to at some point.)
Currently, my favorite barbecue in the general area is Full Service in Maryville. Their meat is good and their sauces make a nice compliment to the meat. Of course, unless you get it to go you have to not mind eating at picnic tables outside of an old service station (and I have done so in the middle of the winter with a stiff wind blowing - that's how much I like their food.) Also, I have to admit that the last time I ate there even their barbecue wasn't as smoky as it has been in the past - but maybe they were just having an 'off' day. At least that is my hope.
jonathan#509413 writes:
Oh, well, at least temperatures are finally starting to cool enough that I can get out and fire my own smoker at home. That way I know the meat is smoky enough for my tastes.
bob writes:
http://www.wate.com/story/14448612/ce...
Ott's Bar-B-Q at 12828 Kingston Pike - Grade: 60
Mice droppings were found in three areas of the restaurant.
The inspector watched the cook touch a dirty bag, but he didn't wash his hands as he went back to work.
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