Grub Scout: Bearden Hill Fieldhouse loads the bases with tasty options

Even if you didn't know the street address of the newly opened Bearden Hill Fieldhouse, the restaurant/sports bar's name would help you navigate there intuitively. It indeed sits atop the Kingston Pike crest of Bearden Hill, which is where The Grub Spouse and I dropped in the other night for dinner.

The two-level social spot is neither cavernous nor deafeningly raucous like many sports bars tend to be. We found the space to offer more of an intimate, relaxed feel. High-top tables and red-cushioned booths in the front dining area lead to a bar area in the rear, where a wide selection of beers and a full bar are set up to complement the menu. A staircase leads to an upper level, where pool tables and videogames entertain patrons who are feeling sporty themselves.

Surrounding most of the interior perimeter is a bank of flat-panel TVs displaying multiple sporting events — in our case, basketball. In fact, it's hard to turn your head in any given direction without making eye contact with a high-def screen.

Several of the appetizers might have sufficed that night, including garlic knots, a hummus plate and portabella fries. However, based on our server's suggestion, as well as several online reviews we perused, we tried the battered-and-fried pickles and banana peppers.

The rest of the selections consist primarily of sandwiches and pizza. About a half-dozen signature combinations are available, all safe ground, such as all meat, all veggie, barbecue chicken, Hawaiian, etc. These are priced at $14 and $17.50 (although actual dimensions in inches are not listed on the menu). Or you can add toppings to a cheese pie ($9 and $12.50), with some two-dozen items ranging from $1.50 to $2.25 for a medium and $2.25 to $3.50 for a large.

The sandwich lineup includes a pizza sub, shrimp po'boy, pimento cheese, an all-veggie creation and about seven different kinds of burgers. I considered a burger but was distracted by the artichoke po'boy, featuring deep-fried artichoke hearts and served on a hoagie roll with lettuce, tomato and house-made Cajun remoulade. The Spouse ordered from the limited number of entrees, choosing the bourbon-glazed salmon over the deep-fried Cornish hen, grilled shrimp, a rib-eye and a filet. We ordered taboulleh and macaroni and cheese as our respective side dishes.

When our starter arrived, The Spouse and I picked through the pickles and peppers quickly, relishing the tangy but not-too-spicy flavor of both. Yes, they were greasy, but they were quite delish and a nice break from the usual deep-fried fare.

The main dishes earned mostly favorable impressions with a few detractions along the way. First, I was generally pleased with the po'boy. The roll was soft and warm, and the veggie garnishes complimented the hot, fried artichokes well, but I thought the artichoke flavor could have been bolder. I formed the same opinion about the taboulleh. Having grown up eating my Lebanese grandmother's home cooking, I can tell you that Fieldhouse's version, while solid on appearance and texture, was sorely lacking in flavor. As in practically tasteless.

The Spouse's salmon was well prepared, capturing a smoky grilled essence, but the glaze highlighted the fish with more of a general sweet flavor than anything specifically bourbon-like. On the other hand, Fieldhouse's bubbly-hot mac and cheese is the mac daddy, and that's coming from someone (me) who doesn't particularly like that particular item.

However, I think you'd be safe giving Bearden Hill Fieldhouse a shot. Depending on what you order, you may put this restaurant in your starting lineup. Or you might let it ride the bench.

© 2012, Knoxville News Sentinel Co.
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